Swiss Watch Brand Classification 1979: The Official Tier System Explained

In 1979, the Chinese watch industry published an internal reference document classifying all major imported Swiss watch brands by prestige, technical capability, and market positioning. This classification system — used by professional watchmakers and collectors across China — remains one of the most insightful frameworks for understanding the Swiss watch hierarchy. This guide presents the complete tier system, updated with modern context.

The 1979 Swiss Watch Classification System

The original document divided Swiss watch brands into six tiers, with Tier One further subdivided into First Class and Second Class. This subdivision reflects the extraordinary gap between the very top of Swiss watchmaking and the rest of the industry.

Swiss Tier One — First Class: The Absolute Pinnacle

Only two brands achieved First Class status in the 1979 classification:

INTERNATIONAL (IWC Schaffhausen)

Listed simply as "INTERNATIONAL" in the original document, IWC Schaffhausen was recognised as one of the two finest Swiss watch manufacturers in the world. Based in Schaffhausen — the only major Swiss watch manufacturer outside the Jura region — IWC has always been defined by its engineering-led philosophy. Its Pilot's Watch, Portugieser, and Grand Complication lines represent the pinnacle of functional watchmaking. Now part of the Richemont Group, IWC continues to develop in-house movements of exceptional quality.

ROLEX (劳力士)

Rolex needs no introduction. In 1979 — as today — Rolex represented the global standard for luxury watch quality, reliability, and prestige. Its Oyster case, Perpetual rotor, and Cyclops lens are among the most recognised innovations in watchmaking history. Rolex produces virtually all of its components in-house, including its own steel alloy (Oystersteel), its own ceramic bezels, and its own COSC-certified movements. The Submariner, Daytona, and Datejust remain the most recognised luxury watch references in the world. Rolex's First Class status in 1979 was uncontested — and remains so today.

Swiss Tier One — Second Class: The Icons

Two brands achieved Second Class status within Tier One:

LONGINES (浪琴 / 郎琴)

Longines has one of the longest continuous histories of any Swiss watch brand, with records dating to 1832. In 1979, it was recognised as a Second Class Tier One brand — a genuine icon of Swiss precision. Longines built its reputation on precision timekeeping: it was the official timekeeper for the Olympics and numerous world championships. Today, as a Swatch Group brand, Longines occupies the accessible luxury segment, using ETA-based movements with in-house modifications. Its vintage pieces — particularly its elegant dress watches and pilot's chronographs — are among the most sought-after in the collector market.

OMEGA (欧米茄)

Omega is the Swatch Group's flagship brand and one of the most recognised Swiss watch names in the world. In 1979, it was classified alongside Longines as a Second Class Tier One brand — a reflection of its exceptional quality and global prestige. Omega's co-axial escapement technology, developed in partnership with independent watchmaker George Daniels, represents a genuine horological innovation. Its Seamaster, Speedmaster (the official watch of NASA's Apollo programme), and Constellation lines are icons of 20th-century watchmaking. In China, Omega's name recognition has historically exceeded even Rolex in certain demographics.

Why This Classification Still Matters

The 1979 classification was created by professionals for professionals — it reflects genuine technical assessment rather than marketing spend. Several of its judgements have proven remarkably durable: Rolex and IWC remain at the absolute top of the Swiss watch hierarchy nearly five decades later. The classification of Longines and Omega as Second Class Tier One — exceptional brands, but a step below the very finest — also reflects a consensus that most serious collectors would still recognise today.

For the modern watch buyer, this historical framework provides a useful anchor: it reminds us that brand prestige is built over decades of consistent quality, not marketing campaigns.

Explore Precision Watchmaking at Aorawa Time

At Aorawa Time, we honour the heritage of Swiss watchmaking in every piece we offer:

• Men's 42mm Skeleton Automatic Watch — witness the automatic movement in motion through an open dial.
• Men's Full Diamond Octagonal Luxury Watch — precision engineering meets uncompromising luxury.
• Vintage Leather Apple Watch Band — handcrafted quality for the modern wrist.