How to care for a mechanical watch
Watch Care Guide · Mechanical & Automatic · 2026
How to Care for a
Mechanical Watch
A well-maintained mechanical watch outlasts every electronic device you own. Here's everything you need to know — daily habits, what to avoid, when to service, and what to do when something goes wrong.
The Short Version
Wind it properly. Keep it away from magnets and extreme temperatures. Limit water exposure to the rated ATM. Clean with a dry soft cloth. Service every 5–7 years. Store somewhere cool and dry when not wearing. Do those seven things and a mechanical watch will run accurately for decades.
A mechanical watch is not a sealed unit. It's a collection of precision components running in close tolerances, lubricated with oils that degrade over time, regulated by a spring whose behaviour changes with temperature and magnetism. It rewards attention in a way that a quartz watch doesn't need — and responds to neglect in ways that accumulate gradually and then become expensive.
The good news: mechanical watch care requires almost no effort for most of the year. The daily habits take thirty seconds. The significant maintenance — service — happens once every five to seven years. The rest is just knowing what to avoid.
1. Winding — When and How
An automatic watch winds itself through wrist movement — wear it for 8–10 hours daily and the rotor keeps the mainspring charged. You should never need to wind it again under normal daily wear. Two situations require manual winding: when the watch has stopped (the mainspring is fully discharged), or when it's been sitting unworn for more than 40–48 hours.
When winding manually: always remove the watch from your wrist first. Winding on the wrist puts lateral stress on the crown stem — the thin rod connecting crown to movement — which causes gradual wear at the crown tube. Twenty to thirty clockwise turns of the crown is sufficient to restart a stopped movement and provide enough power reserve for wrist movement to take over.
For skeleton watches specifically
On a skeleton dial you can watch the winding mechanism operate as you turn the crown — the rotor advances, the mainspring tensions, and the gear train shifts. Twenty clockwise turns and you'll see the gear train begin to move if the movement was stopped. It's one of the pleasures of owning a skeleton watch.
2. Putting It On and Taking It Off
Small habits that prevent damage over years: fasten the clasp before putting the watch on — letting a bracelet drop onto a hard surface while clasping it is one of the most common causes of case scratches. When removing, do it over a soft surface or padded watch cushion rather than above a sink or tiled counter.
If your watch has a screw-down crown — common on sport watches for water resistance — make sure it's screwed down fully before any water exposure. Unscrew it before winding or time-setting, and screw it back down immediately after. A crown left in the unscrewed position negates the water resistance entirely.
3. Magnets — The Invisible Enemy
Magnetism is the most common cause of sudden rate error in mechanical watches — and the least obvious, because you can't see it happening. The balance spring (hairspring) that regulates the balance wheel's oscillation is made from a steel alloy. When exposed to a strong magnetic field, the hairspring can become magnetised, causing its coils to stick together and shorten its effective length. A shorter effective spring means a faster oscillation rate — the watch runs fast, often dramatically so.
Common magnetic field sources that affect watches: magnetic phone cases and phone backs (particularly MagSafe systems), bag closures and laptop bags with magnetic clasps, laptop and computer speakers, induction stovetops, refrigerator door seals, and security scanner tables at airports.
The fix is simple and cheap: a watchmaker can demagnetise a watch in under sixty seconds using a handheld demagnetiser — a device that costs a watchmaker about $30 and which they will typically use for free or a nominal fee. If your watch suddenly starts running 5–15 minutes fast, magnetisation is the most likely cause. Don't send it for a full service before ruling this out.
Signs your watch is magnetised
Running significantly fast — more than 2 minutes per day. The rate error appeared suddenly rather than gradually. The watch was recently near a strong magnetic source. Confirm with a free smartphone compass app: hold the watch near the compass sensor and see if it deflects. A magnetised watch will deflect the compass needle significantly.
4. Water — Respect the Rating
Water resistance ratings are not depth limits — they're static pressure test results. A watch rated 3ATM (30 metres) was tested at that pressure without water movement. In real-world use, the dynamic pressure of fast-moving water (swimming, showering, running a tap with the wrist under) exceeds the static test pressure at equivalent depths. General guidelines:
Water resistance also degrades over time — gaskets (the rubber seals around the crystal, caseback, and crown tube) harden and crack with age and UV exposure. A watch that was water-resistant when new may not be five years later. If water resistance matters to you, have the gaskets tested at each service interval.
Hot water is harder on gaskets than cold. Saunas, steam rooms, and hot showers are more damaging than a cold splash. The temperature differential between hot steam and cold water can also cause rapid expansion and contraction that stresses seals. When in doubt, take it off.
5. Temperature and Shock
Mechanical watch lubricants are calibrated for a specific viscosity range. In extreme cold (below 0°C), oils thicken and the movement slows or stops. In extreme heat (above 40°C), oils thin and the movement may run fast. For most daily wear — air-conditioned offices, outdoor environments in normal seasons, car interiors — temperature is not a concern. The exceptions: saunas, outdoor work in winter extremes, and leaving the watch in a hot car.
Shock is more immediately damaging than temperature. Dropping a watch onto a hard surface, striking the case against a door frame or tool, or any sharp impact can displace components in the movement — particularly the balance staff (the thin shaft the balance wheel rides on), which is one of the most fragile components in the movement. Many modern movements include shock protection (Incabloc, Kif) that absorbs impacts — but protection has limits. If your watch stops or suddenly runs erratically after an impact, have a watchmaker inspect it.
6. How to Clean a Mechanical Watch
The case, crystal, and bracelet accumulate skin oils, dust, and general grime over daily wear. Cleaning these external surfaces is simple and safe; cleaning the movement is not — leave that to a watchmaker during service.
Soft dry microfibre cloth
The correct tool for most cleaning. Wipe the case, lugs, and crystal in the direction of the brushed finish lines. For polished surfaces, use a circular motion with very light pressure. A microfibre cloth won't scratch steel or crystal.
Soft toothbrush with warm water (for bracelets)
For stainless steel bracelets, a soft toothbrush with a small amount of mild soap and warm water cleans between links effectively. Rinse with clean water and dry thoroughly. Only do this if the watch's water resistance rating allows it.
Chemical cleaners, acetone, alcohol on the case
Solvents dissolve gasket materials and some crystal coatings. They can also damage leather straps and rubber components. Water and mild soap is all you need for external surfaces.
Compressed air into the crown tube
Forcing air into the crown tube can displace the crown tube gasket and introduce contaminants into the movement. Never blow into the crown area with compressed air.
7. How to Store a Mechanical Watch
For overnight storage between daily wears: anywhere cool and dry is fine. A watch box, watch roll, or the original packaging all work. The main things to avoid in the storage location: high humidity (bathroom shelves — condensation cycles degrade gaskets and can cause moisture ingress), direct sunlight (fades dials and degrades rubber components), and proximity to strong magnets (see above).
For longer storage — if you're rotating between several watches and a particular one won't be worn for weeks or months:
Allow the mainspring to run down before storage. Storing a watch fully wound for extended periods keeps the mainspring under continuous tension, which can cause "set" — the spring loses some of its elasticity over time. Let it run to stop before putting it away for weeks.
Store crown-side up. This minimises friction on the crown tube seal and the crown stem itself during storage.
Use a watch winder for automatics you rotate regularly. A winder keeps the mainspring charged and the lubricants moving — more beneficial than leaving the watch stopped for months. Ensure the winder's rotation count matches your movement's specification.
8. When and Why to Service
A mechanical watch service is the equivalent of an oil change and inspection for a car engine — routine maintenance that prevents larger problems and keeps the watch running as intended. The standard interval is every 5–7 years for most movements under normal daily wear.
What happens during a service: the movement is fully disassembled, all parts are ultrasonically cleaned, worn components (mainspring, gaskets, jewel bearings if needed) are replaced, the movement is reassembled and lubricated at all specified points with the correct grade of oil for each location, and it's regulated to the correct beat rate and amplitude.
Cost: $100–$250 at a competent independent watchmaker. Manufacturer service centres charge more — sometimes significantly more for luxury brands. For a $200 watch, an independent watchmaker is the correct choice.
Service earlier than 5–7 years if:
→ Losing or gaining more than 30 seconds per day (after ruling out magnetisation)
→ Stopping when not out of power reserve
→ Power reserve noticeably shorter than normal
→ Unusual sounds from the movement — grinding, rattling, inconsistent tick
→ Moisture or condensation visible inside the crystal
→ After a significant impact or drop
Choosing a watchmaker: look for someone who works on mechanical movements regularly — ask directly whether they work on automatic movements. A jeweler who primarily does battery changes is not the right person to service an automatic movement. Watch repair forums, collector communities, and the NAWCC (National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors) are good sources for finding competent independent watchmakers in most regions.
9. What to Do When Something Goes Wrong
The watch stopped
First check: is it simply out of power reserve? Wind it 20–30 turns clockwise. If it restarts and runs normally, the mainspring was discharged — no issue. If it won't restart after winding, or restarts briefly then stops again, the movement needs inspection by a watchmaker.
Running significantly fast — 5+ minutes per day
Magnetisation is the most likely cause if the error appeared suddenly. Test with a compass app (a magnetised watch deflects the needle). A watchmaker can demagnetise in under a minute, typically at no charge. If demagnetisation doesn't fix it, or the error was gradual rather than sudden, service may be needed.
Running slow — losing time daily
Check that the movement is adequately wound — insufficient power reserve causes slow running. If fully wound and still slow: check position (some movements run differently in different orientations). Persistent slow running that isn't resolved by winding usually indicates lubricant degradation or a mainspring issue — service.
Moisture inside the crystal
Do not continue wearing the watch. Moisture inside the case will cause corrosion on movement components rapidly — hours matter, not days. Take it to a watchmaker immediately. The longer moisture remains in contact with the movement, the more expensive the repair. This is the one situation where "I'll deal with it next week" is the wrong answer.
Crown difficult to wind or set
On a non-screw-down crown: difficult winding can indicate a worn crown stem, a bent crown tube, or lubricant congestion in the keyless works. Don't force it. On a screw-down crown: if it won't unscrew smoothly, the threads may be cross-threaded or damaged. A watchmaker can assess and repair both.
Mechanical Watch Care — Quick Reference
FAQ
How do you care for a mechanical watch?
Seven practices: wind correctly (off wrist, clockwise, 20–30 turns); avoid magnets; respect water resistance rating; avoid temperature extremes; clean with soft dry cloth only; store cool and dry away from sunlight; service every 5–7 years. Do these and the watch will run accurately for decades.
How often should I service my mechanical watch?
Every 5–7 years under normal daily wear. Service earlier if the watch loses or gains significantly more than 30 seconds per day (after ruling out magnetisation), stops unexpectedly, has reduced power reserve, or shows moisture inside the case.
Can magnets damage my watch?
Yes — strong magnets can magnetise the hairspring, causing the watch to run fast by minutes per day. Common sources: magnetic phone cases, bag clasps, laptop speakers. Fix: a watchmaker demagnetises in under a minute, typically free or minimal cost. Test with a compass app first — a magnetised watch deflects the needle.
What if my automatic watch stops?
First: wind it 20–30 clockwise crown turns. If it restarts and runs normally, the mainspring was discharged — no problem. If it won't restart, restarts briefly then stops, or stops regularly while worn: take it to a watchmaker. Don't force the crown or shake the watch.
How long will a mechanical watch last?
Indefinitely, with proper care and regular servicing. Mechanical watches from the 1920s and 1930s — a hundred years old — are still running today because they have been serviced. The movement's components are metal, not plastic, and are designed to be replaced when worn. A mechanical watch is one of the few consumer objects that has no inherent lifespan if maintained.
The Watch Worth Caring For
A mechanical watch maintained according to this guide will outlast every phone, laptop, and quartz watch you own. The Aorawa skeleton range — genuine automatic, 316L stainless, 2-year warranty — is built to the same standard. On a skeleton dial, the mechanism described in this guide is visible and running every time you look at the time.