Swiss Watch Brand Classification 1979: Tier One Third Class & Tier Two — CYMA, JLC, Tissot, Tudor, Hamilton, Zenith & More
In our previous guide, we covered the elite of Swiss watchmaking — the Tier One First and Second Class brands of the 1979 official classification: Rolex, IWC, Longines, and Omega. In this second instalment, we explore the next tiers: Tier One Third Class, Tier Two First Class, and Tier Two Second Class — brands that represent exceptional quality and historical significance, many of which remain highly collectible today.
Swiss Tier One — Third Class
These brands were classified just below Longines and Omega in the 1979 system — a remarkable achievement given the competition. Several of these names are among the most respected in horology.
CYMA (西马)
Once a genuinely prestigious Swiss manufacture, CYMA built its reputation on reliable mechanical movements and elegant design. In 1979 it was still considered a Tier One brand. Today, following changes in ownership, its standing has diminished — but its vintage pieces remain sought after by collectors.
ETERNA (依特那)
Eterna holds a unique place in watchmaking history: it was one of the founding shareholders of ETA, the movement manufacturer that supplies the majority of the Swiss watch industry. Its ball-bearing rotor — the “Eterna rotor” — is the mechanical basis of virtually every modern automatic watch. Today Eterna produces movements for Porsche Design and maintains a small but respected collection of its own watches.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE (积家)
Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the great paradoxes of the 1979 classification: listed as Tier One Third Class, it is today widely regarded as one of the finest watch manufacturers in the world — a true manufacture producing entirely in-house movements of extraordinary complexity. JLC has historically supplied base movements to Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet. Its Reverso, Atmos clock, and Calibre 101 (the world’s smallest mechanical movement) are icons of horological history. Its lower 1979 ranking likely reflects its limited distribution in China at the time rather than any deficiency in quality.
MOVADO (摩凡陀)
Movado is best known for its Museum Watch — a minimalist dial with a single gold dot at 12 o’clock representing the sun at noon — which has become one of the most recognised watch designs in the world. In 1979, Movado was classified as a Tier One Third Class brand, reflecting its genuine quality and design innovation. Today it occupies the mid-range segment, using ETA-based movements.
TISSOT (天梭)
Tissot is the Swatch Group’s volume brand — Swiss-made quality at an accessible price. By 2013, Tissot was selling one million watches per year in China alone. Its T-Touch touch-screen watch and its role as official timekeeper for major sporting events have raised its profile considerably. In 1979, its Tier One Third Class ranking reflected its genuine Swiss quality, even at a more accessible price point.
TUDOR (帝舵)
Tudor is Rolex’s sister brand, created to offer Rolex-level build quality at a lower price. For decades it used ETA-based movements; in recent years it has developed its own in-house calibre. Its Black Bay and Pelagos lines have developed genuine collector followings independent of the Rolex connection. In 1979, Tudor’s Tier One Third Class ranking reflected its strong quality credentials and Rolex association.
UNIVERSAL (万年)
Universal Genève was once one of the most respected names in Swiss watchmaking, known for its sophisticated complications and elegant design. Its Tri-Compax chronograph is among the most collectible vintage watches in the world. The brand has been largely dormant in recent decades, making its vintage pieces increasingly valuable.
ULYSSE NARDIN (雅典马)
Ulysse Nardin built its reputation on marine chronometers — precision timekeeping instruments used for navigation. Its observatory chronometers won more prizes than any other brand in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Today it is known for its innovative silicon escapements and striking enamel dials. Its 1979 Tier One Third Class ranking reflects a brand that was highly respected but less commercially prominent in the Chinese market.
Swiss Tier Two — First Class
Tier Two First Class brands represent solid Swiss quality — reliable movements, established heritage, and strong collector interest, particularly for vintage pieces.
EBEL
EBEL is known for its elegant sports-luxury watches, particularly the Sport Classique and Beluga lines. It has historically used ETA movements with in-house modifications and has maintained a consistent design identity centred on the “architects of time” concept.
ELGIN (美国)
Elgin was one of America’s great watch manufacturers — at its peak, the largest watch factory in the world. By 1979 it had ceased production, but its historical movements remain highly collectible. Its inclusion in the Swiss classification reflects its global reputation rather than Swiss origin.
HAMILTON (美国)
Hamilton is an American brand with Swiss manufacturing roots — now part of the Swatch Group and produced in Switzerland. Its military watches, particularly the Field Watch and Khaki series, are among the most respected in their category. Hamilton supplied watches to the US military and was the official watch of American railroads. Today it offers exceptional value for money in the mechanical watch segment.
JUVENIA (法国)
Juvenia is a French-Swiss brand known for its elegant dress watches and unusual case shapes. It has a long history of producing distinctive, design-led timepieces and maintains a small but loyal collector following.
MARVIN
Marvin is one of Switzerland’s oldest watch brands, with records dating to 1850. It has historically produced reliable ETA-based movements and maintains a niche presence in the collector market.
MIDO (美耸)
MIDO is a Swatch Group brand positioned between Tissot and Longines in price. It is known for its architectural design inspiration — the Multifort, Baroncelli, and Commander lines draw on famous buildings for their aesthetic. MIDO offers strong value in the Swiss automatic segment.
WALTHAM (美国)
Like Elgin, Waltham was one of America’s great watch manufacturers — a pioneer of industrial watchmaking in the 19th century. Its historical movements are highly collectible, and the brand name has been revived by various owners over the years.
Swiss Tier Two — Second Class
Tier Two Second Class brands include several names that have grown significantly in prestige since 1979 — a reminder that the collector market evolves over time.
BULOVA (美国)
Bulova is an American brand with a remarkable history of innovation: it introduced the first fully electronic watch (the Accutron, 1960) and the first radio-controlled watch. Its Precisionist line achieves quartz accuracy of ±10 seconds per year. Today Bulova is owned by Citizen and offers strong value across its range.
CORTEBERT
Cortebert supplied movements to Rolex in the early 20th century — a remarkable historical footnote. Its vintage pieces are collectible precisely because of this connection.
GRUEN (格鲁恩)
Gruen was a major American watch brand known for its distinctive “Curvex” curved case design, which allowed the watch to follow the contour of the wrist. Its vintage pieces are among the most distinctive in American horology.
VULCAIN (小火神)
Vulcain is best known for its Cricket alarm watch — the official watch of US Presidents from Truman to Nixon. Its mechanical alarm complication remains one of the most distinctive in watchmaking.
WITTNAUER
Wittnauer is a sister brand of Longines, historically producing more accessible watches using similar movements. It has a strong heritage in American watchmaking and supplied watches to NASA.
ZENITH (真力)
Zenith is perhaps the most underrated brand in the 1979 classification. Its El Primero movement — the world’s first automatic chronograph, launched in 1969 — is one of the most significant horological achievements of the 20th century. Rolex used the El Primero as the basis for its Daytona chronograph for over a decade. Today Zenith is part of the LVMH group and is experiencing a significant revival, with its Defy and Chronomaster lines attracting strong collector interest. Its Tier Two Second Class ranking in 1979 reflects its limited distribution in China at the time — not its quality.
The Collector’s Takeaway
The 1979 classification is a snapshot of a specific moment in watchmaking history — and several of its rankings look very different through a modern lens. Jaeger-LeCoultre and Zenith in particular have risen dramatically in collector esteem since 1979. The classification’s enduring value is as a framework for understanding how Swiss watchmaking was perceived by professionals at a pivotal moment in the industry’s history.
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