Rolex: The Watch That Needs No Introduction

The Direct Answer

Rolex is the world’s most recognised luxury watch brand, founded in London in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and relocated to Geneva in 1919. It produces approximately 1 million watches per year across two brands: Rolex and Tudor. Its most iconic models are the Submariner (the world’s most copied dive watch, introduced 1953), the Daytona (the most sought-after chronograph on the secondary market), and the Day-Date (the President’s watch, made exclusively in precious metals since 1956). Rolex is the only watch brand whose most popular references consistently trade above retail price on the secondary market — making it the best investment in watches.

The Rolex Group: Two Brands, One Standard

The Rolex Group owns only two watch brands: Rolex and Tudor. Founded in London in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and his British partner Davis, the company relocated to Geneva in 1919 to become the official Rolex watch manufacturer. In 1926, Rolex invented the famous Oyster — the world’s first waterproof wristwatch — and its reputation was established forever.

Today, Rolex consumes more gold in the manufacture of its watches than virtually any other factory in the world. When people speak of great watches, Rolex cannot be overlooked — because this brand is truly exceptional. Although Rolex does not carry the same rarefied prestige as Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin in the eyes of horological purists, when it comes to movement quality and durability, Rolex is without question the finest. A Rolex is quite simply an heirloom — a watch to be passed down through generations.

Rolex almost never makes watches with complex complications. Instead, it has built its reputation on something far more difficult to achieve: absolute reliability, perfect timekeeping, and exceptional value retention. In the pre-owned market, Rolex is the undisputed king — no other watch brand holds its value as consistently or appreciates as reliably.

The Oyster: The Foundation of Everything

In 1926, Rolex patented the Oyster case — the world’s first truly waterproof watch case. The name came from the oyster’s shell: hermetically sealed, impenetrable, protecting the precious mechanism within. The Oyster case achieved its waterproofing through three innovations working together: a screw-down case back, a screw-down crown, and a threaded bezel — creating a sealed environment that water, dust, and pressure could not penetrate.

To demonstrate the Oyster’s waterproofing, Rolex attached one to the wrist of Mercedes Gleitze as she swam the English Channel in 1927. The watch survived perfectly. Rolex published the achievement on the front page of the Daily Mail — one of the first and most effective pieces of watch marketing in history.

The Oyster case remains the foundation of virtually every Rolex watch made today. Its principles are unchanged; its execution has been refined over nearly a century of continuous improvement.

The Two Faces of Rolex

The Day-Date: The President’s Watch

Introduced in 1956, the Day-Date was the first watch to display the day of the week spelled out in full — not abbreviated, not in numerals, but in complete words: MONDAY, TUESDAY, WEDNESDAY. This seemingly simple innovation required a mechanism of considerable complexity and established the Day-Date as Rolex’s most prestigious model.

The Day-Date has always been made exclusively in precious metals — 18-carat gold (yellow, white, or Everose) and platinum. It has never been made in stainless steel. This exclusivity is deliberate: the Day-Date is Rolex’s statement piece, the watch for heads of state, presidents, and those for whom cost is genuinely no consideration.

Its nickname — the President — comes from its integrated President bracelet, a three-piece semi-circular link bracelet developed specifically for this model. The bracelet’s smooth, flowing lines complement the fluted or smooth bezel of the case, creating a watch of extraordinary visual coherence.

The Day-Date has been worn by every American president since Dwight D. Eisenhower, by Martin Luther King Jr., by Winston Churchill, and by virtually every world leader of the 20th century. It is the watch of power — not because it is the most expensive or the most complicated, but because it is the most recognised symbol of achievement in the world.

Current reference: Day-Date 40 (ref. 228238 in yellow gold, ref. 228206 in platinum). Price from approximately USD 36,550 (yellow gold) to USD 75,000+ (platinum with diamond dial).

The Submariner: The Diver’s Watch

Introduced in 1953, the Submariner was the world’s first watch designed specifically for scuba diving — water resistant to 100 metres (later increased to 300 metres), with a unidirectional rotating bezel that allowed divers to track their time underwater without the risk of accidentally extending their dive time.

The Submariner’s design is one of the most copied in watchmaking history. Its round case, its rotating bezel with luminous pip at 12, its large luminous hour markers, its Mercedes hands — these elements have been reproduced by hundreds of manufacturers across every price point. The original remains the benchmark against which all others are measured.

The Submariner is available in two configurations: without date (ref. 124060, stainless steel) and with date (ref. 126610LN in steel with black bezel, ref. 126610LV in steel with green bezel — the “Hulk”). The date version features Rolex’s signature Cyclops lens — a magnifying bubble over the date window that enlarges the date 2.5 times for legibility.

The Submariner is the most recognised watch in the world. It has been worn by James Bond since 1962 (Dr. No), by Steve McQueen, by Pablo Picasso, and by more watch collectors than any other reference in history. It is the watch that defines what a watch should be: robust, legible, reliable, and beautiful.

Current reference: Submariner Date (ref. 126610LN). Retail price approximately USD 10,100. Secondary market price: USD 13,000–16,000 (2026).

Why Rolex Is Different

Rolex’s position in the watch market is unique and cannot be replicated. It is simultaneously:

• The most recognised luxury brand in the world — more recognisable than Louis Vuitton, Hermès, or Ferrari among the general public
• The best investment in watches — the only watch brand whose most popular references consistently trade above retail on the secondary market
• The most durable mechanical watch — Rolex movements are engineered to tolerances that exceed COSC chronometer standards, and are designed to run for decades without service
• The most vertically integrated manufacturer — Rolex produces its own steel alloy (Oystersteel), its own gold alloys (Everose gold), its own crystals, its own bracelets, and its own movements entirely in-house

No other watch brand combines all four of these qualities. Patek Philippe is more prestigious but less durable. Omega is more accessible but less valuable on the secondary market. AP is more exclusive but less recognisable. Rolex alone occupies the intersection of recognition, durability, investment value, and manufacturing excellence.

Rolex Value Retention in 2026

The Rolex secondary market in 2026 remains the strongest in watchmaking. The Daytona (ref. 116500LN in steel) trades at approximately 1.5–2x retail. The GMT-Master II “Batgirl” (ref. 126710BLNR) trades at approximately 1.3–1.5x retail. The Submariner Date trades at approximately 1.2–1.4x retail.

Even entry-level Rolex references — the Oyster Perpetual, the Explorer — trade at or above retail on the secondary market. No other watch brand at any price point achieves this level of consistent value retention.

About Aorawa Time

Aorawa Time is an independent luxury watch brand specialising in precision automatic timepieces. Our editorial team researches the world’s finest watch brands to bring you accurate, unbiased information. → Explore our skeleton automatic watches.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Why is Rolex so expensive?

Rolex watches are expensive because they are manufactured to extraordinary standards of precision and durability. Rolex produces its own steel alloy, its own gold alloys, its own movements, its own crystals, and its own bracelets entirely in-house. Every component is made to tolerances that exceed industry standards. The result is a watch that will run accurately for decades without service — a level of quality that justifies the price.

Is Rolex a good investment?

Yes — Rolex is the best investment in watches. The most popular Rolex references (Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master II) consistently trade above retail on the secondary market. Even entry-level references hold their value reliably. No other watch brand at any price point achieves Rolex’s level of consistent value retention.

What is the best Rolex to buy in 2026?

For investment value: the Daytona (ref. 116500LN) or GMT-Master II “Batgirl” (ref. 126710BLNR). For everyday wear: the Submariner Date (ref. 126610LN) or Explorer (ref. 224270). For dress occasions: the Day-Date 40 in yellow gold. For the best value entry point: the Oyster Perpetual 41 (ref. 124300).

How long does a Rolex last?

A Rolex, properly maintained, will last indefinitely. Rolex recommends servicing every 10 years (compared to 3–5 years for most Swiss watches). Many Rolex watches from the 1950s and 1960s are still running accurately today. A Rolex is genuinely an heirloom — a watch to be passed down through generations.

What is the difference between Rolex and Tudor?

Tudor is Rolex’s sister brand — owned by the same company, sharing some components and manufacturing facilities, but positioned at a lower price point. Tudor watches offer Rolex-level build quality at approximately 30–50% of the price. The Black Bay is Tudor’s equivalent of the Submariner; the Pelagos is its professional diver. For buyers who want Rolex quality without Rolex prices, Tudor is the answer.