Decoding Watch Hallmarks: Purity Marks for Gold, Silver & Platinum (2026 Guide)
| ChenJackie
The Ultimate Guide to Watch Hallmarks & Purity Marks
Everything you need to know about identifying precious metals in high-end horology.
Quick Summary:
Hallmarks are official marks struck on items made of precious metals. They guarantee the purity of the metal and identify the assay office that verified it.
Q: How do I identify a Swiss 18K Gold watch?
A: Look for the "750" mark or the Helvetia head (a woman's profile). 750 signifies that the watch is 75% pure gold. Since 1995, Switzerland also uses the St. Bernard dog head as a universal hallmark for all precious metals.
Q: What is the difference between 18K and 14K gold in watches?
A: 18K gold (0.750) has a higher gold content and a richer yellow hue, making it the standard for luxury Swiss brands. 14K gold (0.585) is more durable and scratch-resistant due to higher alloy content, making it a popular choice for high-end American and European vintage pieces.
Q: What do the animal symbols on vintage silver watches mean?
A: Silver hallmarks are famous for their animal motifs. A Lion typically represents British Sterling Silver (925). In Switzerland, a Duck was used for 925 silver prior to 1995, while a Capercaillie (Grous) often represented 800 silver.
Q: Why choose an Aorawa PVD Gold finish over solid gold?
A: Solid gold is extremely soft and expensive (often $20,000+). Aorawa utilizes Advanced 18K Gold PVD coating on 316L Surgical Steel. This delivers the same prestigious look and executive brilliance but with far superior scratch resistance and at a fraction of the cost, allowing you to invest your capital elsewhere.
Purity Conversion Table
| Karat | Fineness | Common Mark |
|---|---|---|
| 24K | 0.999 | 999 |
| 18K | 0.750 | 750 / Helvetia |
| 14K | 0.585 | 585 / Squirrel |
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