Section 10 (Part II): Non-Metallic Materials in Watchmaking

Non-metallic materials are finding increasingly widespread application in the production and manufacture of timepieces. Beyond traditional materials such as rubber, acrylic glass, and synthetic diamonds, newer materials including carbon fiber, high-tech ceramic, and others are now being used extensively.

At Aorawa Time, we believe that understanding what a watch is made of is fundamental to appreciating what it is. Here is a guide to the non-metallic materials shaping modern watchmaking.

1. Carbon Fiber

Carbon fiber (cabon fiber) is black in appearance. It is a new high-performance material that is stronger than steel, less dense than aluminum, more corrosion-resistant than stainless steel, more heat-resistant than heat-resistant steel, and — like metals — capable of conducting electricity. It possesses outstanding properties in the fields of electrical engineering, thermal engineering, and mechanics.

(1) Overview of Carbon Fiber

In the 1980s, carbon fiber materials were primarily used by developed countries such as the United States and Europe in aerospace and military applications. Entering the 1990s, the range of applications expanded continuously — first into sporting goods, and eventually into virtually every field. Many countries around the world are now capable of producing carbon fiber, but in terms of scale, quality, and output, Japan remains the world's largest producer today.

(2) Carbon Fiber Applications in Watchmaking

Sports watch lines were among the first to adopt carbon fiber, applying it to cases and dials. Notable examples include:

• The Omega Seamaster 90th Anniversary Edition, which features a carbon fiber dial
• Multiple Tianji (Khaki) sports models, using carbon fiber cases and dials
• The IWC Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon, featuring a forged carbon case
• The Bvlgari Speed Command Chronograph and the Omega Megaquartz Chronograph, both featuring carbon fiber dials
• BELL&ROSS, which pairs carbon fiber baseplate with tourbillon movements, complemented by sandblasted and polished titanium cases for an even more luxurious result

2. Ceramic

(1) Pottery and Porcelain

Clay fired at 600°C produces pottery; fired at 1,300°C, it produces porcelain.

(2) Precision Ceramic

The primary component of precision ceramic is zirconium oxide. Under specific temperature conditions, it achieves excellent machinability. Through advanced processing methods, it can be formed into exquisite cases, bracelets, and links — smooth, wear-resistant, and gentle on the skin. It can also be adjusted to various colors through special processes, lending it a more luxurious and refined appearance.

(3) High-Tech Ceramic

Ultra-fine zirconium oxide or titanium carbide powder is injected into molds under high pressure, then sintered in a specialized furnace at 1,450°C to form extremely wear-resistant ceramic components. After multiple finishing processes using diamond powder, the result is a high-tech ceramic with a uniquely lustrous surface.

High-tech ceramic immediately brings to mind Swiss Rado — but in fact, ceramic has long established itself across the luxury watch segment. Traces of precision ceramic can be found on watches from Graff, Chanel, Rolex, and many other prestigious brands.

The concept of ceramic has evolved alongside modern technology, extending from everyday life and architecture into electronics, scientific research, and beyond. Modern technical ceramic knives, for example, offer advantages that metals cannot match: a clean white appearance with a jade-like luster; a sharp blade that cuts with precision and ease; hardness second only to diamond; and wear resistance 60 times greater than metal cutting tools. They do not rust, discolor, or corrode; they resist acids and alkalis; they are difficult to stain, easy to clean, and environmentally safe.

The quality of a fine watch is determined by the properties of its materials. The case and bracelet account for more than 95% of the materials used in a watch — their function is to protect the movement, provide water resistance, anti-magnetism, shock resistance, aesthetic appeal, and wearing comfort. Precision ceramic offers high strength and surface hardness, excellent wear resistance, light weight, corrosion resistance, and hypoallergenic properties. High-tech ceramic achieves a hardness of Mohs 8 to 9 — second only to natural diamond and far superior to stainless steel. Its one drawback is brittleness: impacts should be avoided during use.

From carbon fiber dials to high-tech ceramic cases, the materials of modern watchmaking are as remarkable as the movements within. Explore timepieces that push the boundaries of material science at Aorawa Time.