Breitling: Instruments for Professionals — Navitimer, Superocean & Aviation Heritage
The Direct Answer
Breitling is a Swiss watch brand founded in 1884 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, specialising in precision chronographs and instruments for aviation and diving professionals. Its most iconic watch is the Navitimer — introduced in 1952, featuring a circular slide rule bezel that allows pilots to perform flight calculations on the wrist. Breitling is now part of a private equity group (CVC Capital Partners acquired it in 2017) and produces approximately 200,000 watches per year. Its motto: “Instruments for Professionals.”
The Instrument Maker: Breitling’s Identity
Breitling was founded in 1884 by Léon Breitling in Saint-Imier, in the Swiss Jura mountains. From its earliest days, the brand focused on a single speciality: precision chronographs for professional use. Where other Swiss brands pursued elegance and prestige, Breitling pursued function — the creation of instruments that professionals could rely upon in demanding conditions.
This professional focus has defined Breitling’s identity for 140 years. Its watches are not primarily objects of beauty — they are tools. The Navitimer is a flight computer on the wrist. The Superocean is a dive instrument. The Emergency is a watch with a built-in distress beacon. Breitling makes watches for people who need them to work — and who need them to work perfectly.
Breitling’s relationship with aviation is its most important heritage. The brand has supplied chronographs to the Royal Air Force, the US Air Force, and numerous commercial airlines. It was the official supplier of instruments to the International Air Transport Association (IATA) for decades. The Navitimer — with its circular slide rule bezel — was adopted by the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) as its official watch in 1952, cementing Breitling’s status as the pilot’s watch of choice.
The Navitimer: The Pilot’s Watch
The Navitimer is the most important watch Breitling has ever made — and one of the most important chronographs in watchmaking history. Introduced in 1952, it features a circular slide rule bezel: two concentric rings of numbers and logarithmic scales that allow pilots to perform flight calculations — fuel consumption, airspeed, rate of climb, distance — without a calculator or computer.
The slide rule bezel is the Navitimer’s defining feature and its most technically demanding element. The scales must be precisely calibrated to produce accurate calculations, and the bezel must rotate smoothly and lock precisely at each position. In the era before electronic flight computers, the Navitimer was an essential piece of cockpit equipment — a watch that could save lives by providing accurate calculations in the air.
The Navitimer’s dial is one of the most complex in watchmaking: the slide rule scales, the chronograph subdials, the tachymeter scale, and the time display must all coexist on a single dial without becoming illegible. Breitling’s solution — a black dial with white printing, large Arabic numerals, and clearly differentiated zones — is a masterpiece of information design.
The Navitimer has been worn by Scott Carpenter (the second American to orbit the Earth, who wore a Navitimer during his 1962 Mercury-Atlas 7 mission), by countless commercial and military pilots, and by watch collectors who appreciate its combination of technical complexity and historical significance.
Current reference: Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 (ref. AB0138241B1P1). Movement: Breitling Calibre 01 (in-house). Price: approximately USD 8,900 (steel) to USD 18,000+ (gold).
The Superocean: The Diver’s Instrument
The Superocean was introduced in 1957 — the same year as the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms — as Breitling’s entry into the professional dive watch market. Water resistant to 200 metres (later versions to 2,000 metres), with a unidirectional rotating bezel and large luminous hour markers, the Superocean was designed for professional divers who needed a reliable, legible instrument underwater.
The Superocean Heritage — a retro-styled version of the original — is the most popular Superocean reference today. Its vintage-inspired dial, domed crystal, and coloured bezel options (blue, green, black) give it a distinctive aesthetic that sets it apart from the more utilitarian original. The Superocean Heritage is available in 38mm, 42mm, and 46mm case sizes, making it one of the most versatile dive watches in the market.
Current reference: Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42 (ref. AB2010121B1S1). Price: approximately USD 4,200 (steel with rubber strap).
The Chronomat: The All-Rounder
The Chronomat is Breitling’s most versatile chronograph — a watch that combines the technical capabilities of the Navitimer with a more wearable, less specialised aesthetic. Introduced in 1984, it features a rouleaux bracelet (a distinctive three-link bracelet with rounded links) and a bidirectional rotating bezel with four rider tabs — raised markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 that allow the bezel to be operated with gloved hands.
The Chronomat was developed in collaboration with the Frecce Tricolori — the Italian Air Force aerobatic display team — and was designed to meet the specific requirements of military pilots. Its robust construction, legible dial, and versatile styling have made it one of Breitling’s most enduring designs.
The Emergency: The Watch That Can Save Your Life
The Breitling Emergency is the most technically extraordinary watch the brand produces — a watch with a built-in dual-frequency distress beacon that transmits on both 121.5 MHz (the international aviation distress frequency) and 406 MHz (the satellite-monitored frequency used by search and rescue services). In an emergency, the wearer deploys the antenna from the case and activates the beacon, which transmits a distress signal that can be detected by satellites and rescue services worldwide.
The Emergency is not merely a watch — it is a survival instrument. It has been credited with saving lives in real emergency situations, including aircraft crashes and maritime incidents. It is the only watch in the world with a built-in emergency beacon, and it requires a licence to purchase in some countries due to its radio transmission capabilities.
Breitling’s In-House Movement: Calibre 01
Until 2009, Breitling used movements from ETA and other Swiss suppliers. In 2009, it introduced the Calibre 01 — its first fully in-house chronograph movement. The Calibre 01 beats at 28,800 vph, has a 70-hour power reserve, and is COSC-certified as a chronometer. It is one of the finest in-house chronograph movements in the industry — comparable in quality to movements from Rolex and IWC.
The introduction of the Calibre 01 transformed Breitling’s position in the watch market. A brand that had previously been dependent on external movement suppliers became a genuine manufacture — a brand capable of designing, producing, and finishing its own movements from scratch.
Breitling vs the Competition
Breitling’s primary competitors are Omega (in the sports chronograph market), IWC (in the pilot’s watch market), and Rolex (in the dive watch market). Against Omega, Breitling offers greater aviation specialisation and a more technical aesthetic. Against IWC, Breitling offers greater chronograph expertise and a stronger dive watch collection. Against Rolex, Breitling offers more complex chronograph complications at a lower price point.
Breitling’s value retention is moderate — stronger than most mid-range Swiss brands but weaker than Rolex or Patek Philippe. The Navitimer and Chronomat are the strongest performers on the secondary market.
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→ Read more: Rolex: The Watch That Needs No Introduction
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Frequently Asked Questions
What is Breitling known for?
Breitling is known for precision chronographs and professional instruments, particularly for aviation and diving. Its most famous watch is the Navitimer — a pilot’s chronograph with a circular slide rule bezel for flight calculations, introduced in 1952 and still in production today.
What is the Navitimer slide rule bezel?
The Navitimer’s slide rule bezel is a circular calculator — two concentric rings of numbers and logarithmic scales that allow pilots to perform flight calculations (fuel consumption, airspeed, rate of climb, distance) without a separate calculator. It was an essential piece of cockpit equipment in the era before electronic flight computers.
Is Breitling a luxury brand?
Yes. Breitling is a Swiss luxury watch brand founded in 1884, producing precision chronographs and professional instruments. Its watches range from approximately USD 3,500 (entry-level Superocean) to USD 50,000+ (limited edition Navitimer in precious metals).
What is the Breitling Emergency watch?
The Breitling Emergency is a watch with a built-in dual-frequency distress beacon that transmits on 121.5 MHz and 406 MHz — the frequencies monitored by aviation and maritime rescue services. It is the only watch in the world with a built-in emergency beacon and has been credited with saving lives in real emergency situations.
Does Breitling make its own movements?
Yes. Since 2009, Breitling has produced its own in-house movements, led by the Calibre 01 chronograph movement. The Calibre 01 is COSC-certified, beats at 28,800 vph, and has a 70-hour power reserve — one of the finest in-house chronograph movements in the industry.